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Caravan Chronicles

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Caravan Chronicles

Tag Archives: Caravan Electrics

Upgrading pre September 1998 Caravans to 13 Pin

06 Saturday Jun 2015

Posted by Simon Barlow in Caravan Electrics, Electrical, Help Guides, Maintenance, Modifications, Technical

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

13 Pin Plug, Caravan Electrics, Maintenance, Modifications, Towing

One of Caravan Chronicles long time readers and supporters, Colin “Snowy” Snowden, has sent me an excellent article he has written covering all aspects of upgrading pre September 1998 UK caravans to the 13 pin Euro Plug.

It’s very comprehensive article and goes into detail about the various problems and colour codes that were used and cover some of the changes that are required, habitation relays and details the steps required to actually do the upgrade with steps on fault finding.

If you have a pre September 1998 caravan and are thinking of replacing the original 12N/12S wiring with a 13 Pin plug, it’s an essential read.

The document can be downloaded and viewed here: Upgrading to 13 Pin

Colin has included contact details in the article, but if you have any questions that the answers might be helpful to others as well, you could also post them in the comments section below and Colin will be able to answer them.

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“Why do my sidelights flash when I indicate?”…

20 Wednesday Aug 2014

Posted by Simon Barlow in Caravan Electrical Fault Finding, Caravan Electrics, Caravan Servicing, Electrical, Maintenance, Technical, Tips

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

13 Pin Plug, Caravan, Caravan Electrics, earth fault, Maintenance, rear lights, Road Lights, side lights, Travel Trailer

That is one of the most common questions that I am asked about road light problems with caravan’s and trailers. Others are::

“Why do my side lights come on when I brake?”

“When I turn my side lights on why do the indicators glow dimly?”

“When I put my side lights on why do my reversing lights come on?”

“When I brake why do all my rear lights come on?”

The answer is fairly simple, and a lot of people will tell you “It’s an earth fault” So often said simply because they have heard someone else say it but really they don’t understand how it can be an earth fault. Trying to find a fault even if you know what it is can be frustrating if you don’t know a bit of theory behind it, but I’ll try to give you an insight into what’s going on. Lets have a look at a basic wiring diagram for the caravan or trailer road lights and their connections.

The term ground and earth are basically the same thing but the ‘earth’ refers to the cable and the ground is the termination of the earth cable to the car in this case.

Road Light Earth Problems-01

The drawing above shows the basic road light wiring. (Click on the diagram to enlarge it) You can follow each circuit through from the tow vehicle through the 13 pin connector to the rear lights of the caravan or trailer and then back through the return path (earth) to the 13 pin connector and back to the vehicle ground as shown in the diagram.

What happens when you operate the right hand indicator? Electricity flows down the green wire and lights up the right hand indicator on the vehicle and continues down the green wire through the 13 pin connector to the caravan or trailer right hand indicator. It then returns through the black earth wire to vehicle ground.

So what happens if we have an earth fault?

Here is the same drawing only this time with an earth fault.

Road Light Earth Problems-02

Now the return path for the lighting circuits is broken, but using the indicators now also flashes the rear side lights. So what’s happening?

In the diagram below we have again turned on our right indicator, electricity flows down the green wire (shown a bit thicker this time) to the rear caravan or trailer indicator. It flows through the bulb and should then follow the black line to the vehicle ground. But it can’t as there is a break in the wiring.

Road Light Earth Problems-03

Electricity really does like to go home!

As the return path through the black wire is effectively ‘blocked’ because of the break the electric current will try to find another way home. The only path it can find is back through another circuit, in this case  the right hand side light circuit all the way back to the tow vehicle and through the bulb in the rear light to earth, as illustrated below.

Road Light Earth Problems-04

So as your indicator flashes, it is also powering the side light on the caravan or trailer and the rear side light of the tow vehicle. Electricity will nearly always find a way home!

But it’s not quite that simple. In the diagram above I have shown one return path (the heavy black lines) but in fact the return path will be through all the light bulb circuits that are not powered. As there are multiple paths back to earth and only one path or circuit powering the indicator bulb, the indicator bulb will be at full brightness but the other bulbs may only be dim.

If you now turn on the side lights and indicate right, the current from the side lights and the indicator will follow the path of least resistance through the other lights that aren’t lit back to the tow vehicle earth.

So the original question of “Why do my side lights flash when I indicate” might now be expanded to “Why do my side lights flash when I indicate? It can’t be because there is anything wrong with the side lights because they work normally”

We now know that the side lights only appear to work correctly.

The diagrams all show a common earth from both sets of rear lights on the caravan or trailer. Sometimes for convenience the manufacturer will run a separate earth for each light cluster, so all the wires for the left hand lights run down the left hand side and all the wires for the right down the right hand side. The common point is usually a small junction box at the front of the caravan or trailer.

If we have similar symptoms as before but only affecting one side (the RH indicator is OK, but the LH Indicator also flashes the LH side light and LH brake light) then the break in the earth cable will be only on the left hand side earth wiring.

So now you know the theory behind earth faults on caravan or trailer road lights. If you want to do a bit more reading you might find these two articles interesting:

Caravan Road Lights – Basic Fault Finding – a simple fault finding guide using a multimeter to check your caravan or trailer road lights.

Caravan Road Lights – Tracing A Fault – step by step guide to tracing faults in your caravan or trailer road lights.

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Another fault finding guide…

07 Thursday Aug 2014

Posted by Simon Barlow in Caravan Electrical Fault Finding, Caravan Servicing, Electrical, Help Guides, Maintenance, Technical

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Caravan, Caravan Electrics, Caravan Fridge, Caravan Fridge Problem, Caravanning, Fault Finding, Maintenance

One of the questions that I’m asked from time to time is about the 12 volt circuit from the tow car to the caravan that powers the fridge, is how to find any problems that could be the cause of the fridge not working at its normal capacity. There are a few checks that can be done on the fridge first before having to start to look for other reasons why the fridge is not functioning to full capacity when towing.

I have written hopefully a simple guide to checking the circuit tracing the voltage drops and locating where the problem could lie. It will take some time and a basic understanding of how to use a multi-meter is required but it should either help you find the problem(s) or confirm that there is nothing wrong with the wiring and you can stat to look for other possible issues.

It’s in the “Help Guides” section and called “Caravan Fridge Circuit – Tracing A Fault”

I hope you find it helpful.

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Relay, VSR, SCR… what’s the difference?

16 Sunday Mar 2014

Posted by Simon Barlow in Electrical, Help Guides, Maintenance, Technical

≈ 16 Comments

Tags

Caravan, Caravan Electrics, Caravanning, Caravans, Charging, Leisure Battery, Maintenance, Split Charge Relay, starter battery, Technical, Towing, vehicle battery, Vehicle Wiring

There is a lot of confusion over what the differences are and when to use each one. So what are they?  A relay is just a simple switch that allows a low power electrical circuit to turn on (or off) a high-powered electrical circuit. An SCR or Split Charge Relay is a switch that senses voltage and switches over from one circuit to another at a pre set voltage. Finally a VSR – Voltage Sensing Relay is similar to an SCR but turns on and additional circuit at a pre set voltage. So what do you use each one for?

Split Charge Relay – SCR

These are usually installed in 4 x 4’s that have a lot of accessories fitted especially electrical winches. The general idea is the winch is powered from a second battery so that using the winch should never flatten the main vehicle starter battery. As the winch uses a lot of power, it is necessary to be able to recharge this battery as fast as possible using the output from the vehicle’s alternator, so once the vehicle starter battery is fully charged, the output from the alternator is switched directly over to the second battery. Modern SCR’s are usually all solid state and some times have a bypass switch allowing both batteries to be directly connected for either starting the vehicle if the starter battery is flat or to allow the winch to be powered from the starter battery in emergencies.

SCR's are normally solid state, I have shown it as switches to make it clearer.
SCR’s are normally solid state, I have shown it as switches to make it clearer. Note: I haven’t shown any fuses or earth (neutral) cables. Never use the vehicle body as a conductor, always install correctly sized earth (neutral) cables.

How do SCR’s operate?

If you look at the drawing above, you can see the alternator output goes straight to the split charge relay. In normal operation the relay connects the output of the alternator to the starter battery. Once the engine is running and the relay determines the starter battery is fully charged, it switches the output of the alternator to the vehicle accessory battery. If the voltage on the vehicle starter battery drops, the relay switches back. However, these relays are slightly more sophisticated and have the ability to dual feed – i.e. charge both batteries at the same time or the ability to link both batteries for either vehicle starting or to power accessories under extreme load… heavy and prolonged winching for example. Expect to pay serious money for a good quality SCR with a remote bypass facility and battery monitoring.

A true ‘split charge relay’ is not suitable for charging your caravan leisure battery, but could be used for charging leisure batteries in motorhomes.

Voltage Sensing Relay – VSR

Voltage sensing relays were designed to sense the tow vehicles battery voltage and when the battery is sufficiently charged switch on a second circuit, usually the power to the caravan’s fridge. Some of the more sophisticated VSR’s allow the setting of the voltage the relay will operate at. The biggest draw back with these is if the electrical load with the tow vehicle suddenly increases – turning on the headlights, heated windows, air con etc, they can turn off the circuit to the caravan’s fridge until the electrical load is removed. It is for this reason they should be installed with an indicator light on the dash to confirm that they are actually supplying the fridge. With a caravan, if there isn’t a feed to the fridge, the habitation relay will not operate and therefore the caravan’s leisure battery will not be charged.

VOltsge
VSR’s can be a mix of solid state and mechanical switch or all solid state. Again, I have not shown fuses or earth (neutral) cables for clarity.

VSR’s work on the principle that they monitor the vehicles electrical voltage. The VSR’s sensor detects the voltage change when the vehicle battery is fully or near fully charged, it closes the contacts connecting the leisure battery in circuit and allowing it to be charged. However, if the vehicle voltage drops for some reason, the relay will open disconnecting the leisure battery.

Problems with VSR’s

Most of the time they are installed when the rest of the towing electrics are installed and are usually located behind a panel in the rear load area of the vehicle. Because of this, it is rare to see one that has a dashboard indicator light installed to show when it is ON and charging your leisure battery and consequently switching over the habitation relay allowing your fridge to work. The second problem is when they leave the factory the voltage that they are designed to switch on at is set at the correct level if it was installed near the vehicle battery. As it has been installed some distance away, the length of cable between the battery and VSR has its own voltage drop – dependant on length of cable and current through it. So one fault that is often reported is that the relay ‘vibrates’ or ‘chatters’. This is caused by the voltage drop on the connecting cable increasing below the “trigger voltage” when the leisure battery is connected and the relay is simply turning on and off repeatedly. Like most things you get what you pay for and the more expensive VCR’s have a timer circuit built-in so that they only switch over after a pre-determined time.

But wait…. there’s more!

Modern vehicles are sophisticated bits of engineering, electronics and software. In order to reduce emissions a lot of manufacturers removed things like hydraulic power steering pumps and air conditioning pumps and replaced them with electrical motors. This removed mechanical load from the engine and reduced the weight. The trade-off was the vehicle needed more electrical power, so larger alternators were fitted. As power steering and air conditioning wasn’t needed all the time and in order to prolong the life of the vehicle battery, the alternator is now controlled by the software in the vehicles ECU. So when the ECU detects the vehicle battery is fully charged it reduced the output of the alternator by reducing the voltage and therefore reducing the load on the engine and hence reducing engine emissions. If you have a VSR fitted, this drop in the vehicle voltage will stop the VSR working as it was intended to do. So even if the VCR has a timer circuit, it can still fail to work as intended.

Theres is an interesting letter posted in the September 2013 issue of Land Rover Owner magazine:

Article appeared in Land Rover Owner INternational September 2013. (c) LRO /  Bauermedia
Article appeared in Land Rover Owner International September 2013. (c) LRO / Bauermedia

How can we reliably charge the leisure battery in modern vehicles? Well the clue is in the article above. If we can fool the tow vehicle to ‘see’ the leisure battery as part of the vehicles own electrical system the software in the ECU won’t reduce the voltage until both the leisure battery and vehicle battery are suitably charged.

Ordinary Relay

The most straight forward way of providing the leisure battery with a suitable charging circuit is also the cheapest. A simple 30 Amp 12 volt relay can be bought for a few pounds and it will be a reliable way of charging your caravan’s leisure battery.

Ordinary 30 Amp relay
Ordinary 30 Amp relay. Again, I have not shown fuses or earth (neutral) cables for clarity.

The circuit above shows an ordinary 30 Amp automotive relay being used to switch the leisure battery charing circuit. The relay is controlled by the ignition circuit, so when the engine is running the relay is energised and the leisure battery is being charged. As the leisure battery is in circuit all the time the engine is running, the vehicles software in the ECU ‘sees’ just one big battery and will keep the alternator voltage high enough to charge both batteries fully before reducing the output in energy-saving /emission reducing mode.

Some vehicles including a number of Land Rover’s actually have a connection on the main fuse board specifically to control this relay.

I hope you have found this useful.

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Daylight Running Lights (DRL’s) on a caravan…

17 Tuesday Sep 2013

Posted by Simon Barlow in Help Guides, Maintenance, Modifications, Projects, Uncategorized

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

Caravan, Caravan Electrics, Caravan Wiring Projects, Caravanning, Caravans, Daylight Running Lights, Maintenance, Modifications, Towing

A while ago a chap emailed me asking if I could come up with a way of wiring Daylight Running Lights on a caravan without having to change any wiring in the tow vehicle or making a new connection via the 13 pin plug. He also wanted them to work correctly, i.e when the vehicle lights were turned on, the DRL’s turned off automatically. His idea was to install a 300mm strip of super bright white LED’s up each front corner of his caravan to make the caravan more visible.

Was it possible to come up with a wiring solution?

I’ve posted one possible solution in the ‘How To’ section of the “Help Guides‘ page or you can click on Wiring Daylight Running Lights on a caravan. I hope you find it useful.

S

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Let there be light… part two

01 Friday Feb 2013

Posted by Simon Barlow in General, Maintenance, Modifications, Projects

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Caravan, Caravan Electrics, Caravanning, Caravans, Maintenance, Project, Travel Trailer, Travel Trailers

A bit of a dark corner

A bit of a dark corner

Illuminated with success installing the additional light above the cooker (see Let there be light…. or at least a bit more light!) there was another area that needed some light shed upon it. The corner adjacent to the main door of the caravan, where the drop down TV resides is, as we in the north of England call it “a bit dimpsey” ( a bit dark) This is evident when you have to get a torch out at night to see to adjust the controls for the water heater and blown air heating system. It would also be handy to be able to switch on a bit of light when entering the caravan in pitch blackness. I suspect that caravan designers don’t work at night therefore only ever see the requirement for illumination when ‘accent lights’ are needed to show off their latest feature. However, handily they had installed a light switch for the awning right next to the door so upgrading this to a twin switch would allow us to switch on the new light from outside and at least partially light the doorway while we got inside and turned on the other lighting.Caravan_Chronicles_100_3250 A bit of swift keyboard action soon had a twin switch ordered from Leisure Shop Direct soon had a replacement CBE twin switch on its way to us.

I sourced a suitable 12 volt 10 watt light from B & Q…. it’s intend to be a cabinet light run off a small transformer. The first step was to remove the existing switch from the fitting. CBE fittings are great in the fact they are so adaptable and easy to work on. A small flat blade screwdriver to pop off the front trim and remove two screws soon had the switch free to work on.

Cabinet light from B & Q

Cabinet light from B & Q

The next step was to install the light. This involved drilling a small hole for the cable to pass through into the space above the light where the cable could then be routed behind the 12 volt TV socket and Mains socket in the cupboard above. I needed to remove the existing 12 volt socket and aerial connections to get access to the duct that runs down to the cabinet that houses the heater. There are already a number of cables running down this route, so I guessed that there would be an easy way through. A large nut tied to a length of fine cord and lowered down easily found its way through and I could pull it through the switch opening. Tying the other end of the cord on to the wire from the light allowed me to pull the end of the cable through the switch opening.

The new twin switch with the awning cables and the new light cables installed

The new twin switch with the awning cables and the new light cables installed

It was a simple matter now to remove the old single switch from the mounting plate and pop in the new twin switch. I transferred the awning light wires over to the new switch. Next I crimped two spade terminals on to the wire and pushed these on the the connectors on the back of the second switch. I slid some heat shrink tube over the terminals of the new light to finish off with (not shown in photo).

Next, I now needed to pick up a 12 volt supply. As I’d just pulled the cable straight through from the light to the switch, I could break into the cable anywhere to supply power. The best place would be in the top cupboard and take a feed off the 12 volt TV socket. I used a couple of ‘piggy back’ spade connectors to make the connection and included an automotive ‘in line’ blade fuse holder with a 2 amp fuse on the positive lead. As the light was only 10 watts, the current would only be 0.8 to 0.9 amps, so a 2 amp fuse would be fine. The cable that came with the light fitting was rated at 5 amp so I don’t anticipate any safety issues. The only downside is it’s a bit of a fiddle to get to the fuse holder as you have to remove the 12 volt socket. Last job was to check everything with a multimeter before turning on the power.

Before....

Before….

After....

After….

To complete everything only took around 45 minutes and the whole project cost under £15. So now when we come back to the caravan in the dark, we can easily turn on the awning light and an interior light before entering the caravan…. and when in the middle of the night I am prompted by an elbow in the ribs to increase or decrease the heating I can simply turn on the light without dazzling.

When I first thought of this little project, I did start looking at LED fittings to save power for when we are just running on battery. As the light is only for occasional use, the power issue is not critical. The cost of a similar LED fitting would have been around £20 to £25 (at the time of writing) however, as this fitting uses a standard “G” type bulb. I can buy a replacement LED bulb for around £6, so in the near future, it will be a simple task to replace the bulb with a LED unit and it will still be less than a similar LED fitting. My friend Peter ( “Bailey Oklahoma” for those that follow the caravanning forums) has good contacts for LED replacement ‘bulbs’ for use in caravans.

Cheers

S

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Let there be light… or at least a bit more light

22 Tuesday Jan 2013

Posted by Simon Barlow in General, Maintenance, Modifications, Projects

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Caravan, Caravan Electrics, Caravanning, Caravans, Lighting, Modifications, One Hairy Caravanner, Sterling Caravans, Swift Group, Travel Trailer, Travel Trailers

The original light fitted above the sink

The original light fitted above the sink

Generally the lighting in our Sterling Celebration 550 is, pardon the pun ‘spot on’. However, there isn’t anything that has been designed by one person that another thinks they can improve on it. This is the case with the lighting above the sink and hob. Swift had installed a single tube 8 watt fluorescent fitting above the sink unit which was fantastic at lighting the sink up, but trying to see into the depths of any pans on the hob was like peering into a bottomless pit and “One Hairy Caravanner  needed all the help he could get when cooking! It was time for an upgrade.

I had looked on line for suitable alternatives and had considered LED units. While at the Manchester Caravan and Motorhome show last week we looked at a few options for LED fittings, but nothing stood out as a suitable alternative that would cover the existing fixing holes and cable entry point.

A brief search came up with a suitable alternative offered by Maypole that was a twin tube unit that could be selectively switched between running one or both tubes using the inbuilt switch. It had an opaque diffuser and closely matched the existing fitting. As luck would have it was an item stocked by Go Outdoors and with our discount card it worked out to the same price I could buy it on-line.

Before starting, I identified the fuse supplying the light fitting and removed it. Although the caravan master switch was off, it’s always wise to remove the fuse as well… it just becomes habit to do this after a time anyway.

The first task was to drop the bottom panels from the cupboard units – two small screws for each panel and check out a suitable route for the wiring of the second unit. Swift had thoughtfully already machined a hole between the cupboard divider to allow the power cable for the microwave to pass through and even more helpful was the existing 12 volt power cable for the light was long enough to reach the location of the new fitting.

The new fitting screwed to the base panel. The old fitting in front.

The new fitting screwed to the base panel. The old fitting in front.

With the old fitting removed and the new fitting in place, I could start on installing the new fitting. I had checked before removing the panel above the hob that there would be enough clearance to open the glass lid of the hob without trapping fingers. I also wanted the light to be slightly forward so that it illuminated the depths of any pans on the front burners of the hob. With the position marked I could drill a small hole in the panel for the cable to pass through and mounted the light using four small self tapping pan head screws that matched the ones Swift had used on the original light.

Both light fittings attached to the panels with tubes and diffusers installed

Both light fittings attached to the panels with tubes and diffusers installed

All that remained now was to make the connections. The existing power lead was fed through the hole to the space above the hob. The original fitting had spade terminals crimped on to the leads that pushed into the connector fitted to the end of the existing wiring loom so for the fitting above the hob I crimped on two spade connectors.

Crimping on spade terminals

Crimping on spade terminals

Once these were done, I connected the light fitting and re-installed the panel above the hob unit. This gave me enough slack in the existing loom to install two crimp splices.

Two crimped splices.

Two crimped splices.

If you are splicing into cables, please don’t use IDC (Insulation Displacement Connection) connectors, commonly known as  “scotch-loc’s”…. they are not a reliable way of joining cables and can damage the original cable and in some cases reduce the current capacity of the original cable.

All that remained now was to re-install the panel above the sink, replace the fuse for the circuit and test out the fittings.

Let there be light.... or two in this case

Let there be light…. or two in this case

We now have the ability to switch one or two tubes on above the sink and above the hob unit, so now excuses for the “One Hairy Caravanner” to burn anything on the hob now!

S

PS… sorry about the photo quality, I forgot to take a camera and had to use my iPhone

Caravan Chronicles Shopping...

I have been asked where you can purchase some of the products featured above. Here are the links to the products in the Amazon store. If you click on the links and purchase the items, a few pennies will go to helping the cost of running CaravanChronicles.com

Selection of crimp terminals : Electrical / Wire Terminal / Crimp Set 360pc AST24

Ratchet Crimp Tool : Silverline PL55 Ratchet Crimping Tool, 215 mm

Heat Shrink Sleeve : Am-Tech Heat Shrink Wire Wrap Assortment (127 Pieces )

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13 Pin Plug… the green cap arrives!

23 Monday Apr 2012

Posted by Simon Barlow in Help Guides, Maintenance

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

13 Pin Plug, Capus UK Ltd, Caravan Electrics, Menber, Pennine Leisure Supplies, Sargent Electrical, The 13 Pin Plug Puzzle, Towing

You may recall that in a previous post I said I had emailed a couple of distributors (Maypole & Grove Products) about the possibility of selling just the green caps, and I heard absolutely nothing back from them. Well, my next plan of attack was to contact Menber directly. Well that led me via Menber’s web site to a company called Capus (UK) Ltd who are the importers of Menber products into the UK. So yesterday (Sunday) I pinged off an email to them. Continue reading →

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Had any 13 pin plug problems?

29 Wednesday Feb 2012

Posted by Simon Barlow in Blog updates, Help Guides

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

13 Pin Plug, Caravan Electrics, Towing

If you struggle to connect your 13 pin plug to your tow car and no one else does, ever wondered why? Well I think I might have one possible cause and it’s fitted to almost every caravan!

A few people have contacted me and asked if I had any answers as to why they keep having problems trying to connect their 13 pin plug every time they hitch up. I always ask them if they store their plug in the little recess mounded into the fibreglass ‘A’ frame fairing, and inevitably the answer almost always comes back as “Yes”. Continue reading →

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“What’s in your toolbox when travelling?” Tricky one… I don’t have a tool box anymore. I recently started mooching around the internet for a smaller tool box… or rather a tool bag. I used to use up until a few months ago a Stanley Tool Bag. It was lighter than a tool box, I could…

#Tourfest North West

Tourfest North west was our first time attending anything like a gathering of bloggers, vloggers and the generally like minded. It was organised by The Caravan Addys with a little help from others I’m sure as it must be a time consuming task and hard work to bring everything together. We opted to arrive at…

More Jobs Ticked Off…

OK we are still working on a few bits and pieces but the weather on Friday and Saturday was ideal for cleaning the outside of the 5th Wheel. So while Sue made a start on the cleaning of the nose cap, I finished the first stage of the water pump relocation project and upgraded the…

A Few More Jobs Ticked Off The List…

Like any project, ticking the small stuff off a list is the way to move forward even if it seems like sometimes you have ground to a halt. A bit lacking on photos…. I’m temporarily unsure of their location… pilot speak for I’ve lost them! I’ll correct that in due course. I built a new…

A Few Little Jobs Done…

It seems such a long time since I posted anything. Last time out with the Dreamseeker I noticed that the charging voltage when we were hooked up to the truck was only about 12.1 to 12.3 volts as measured in the Dreamseeker battery box. I know that the VW Amarok puts out 14.6 to 14.8…

Happy New Year…

Happy New Year to everyone, I hope you have a great touring year ahead. I’d like to take this opportunity to give you a bit of an update on my personal circumstances and a look forward to a couple of projects I’m planning to kick off our year. First… … A HUGE thank-you yo everyone…

Sutton-on-Sea In September

Just like to say a huge thank you to so many people that have commented or emailed me over my last post. It has cheered me up no end…. it really has. Enough to rattle this post off! We recently went back to Cherry Tree Springs at Sutton on Sea for an 7 day break.…

This Might Be My Last Post…

Not clickbait…. Three weeks ago Sue and I were cycling between 8 and 10 miles each morning to get a morning coffee. Arrived back home and…. well time stopped. I had received notice that my test sample for Bowel Cancer screening had come back positive. Two days later I underwent a colonoscopy procedure which didn’t…

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  1. Dave Hart's avatar
    Dave Hart on How to: Connect two batteries in parallelAugust 27, 2024

    brilliant and so well explained! Thank you, love your work!!

  2. Simon Barlow's avatar
    Simon Barlow on Caravan Road Lights – Basic Fault FindingAugust 25, 2024

    Please look at my very last post on the blog

  3. Martin's avatar
    Martin on Caravan Road Lights – Basic Fault FindingAugust 25, 2024

    martin here caravan lights worked fine for two stop overs I had then hooking up again for my third trip…

  4. Emmy’s Camper Travels's avatar
    Emmy’s Camper Travels on My last post….August 25, 2024

    I’m so sorry. My sincerest sympathies go to you and your wife Sue. Your ideas and advice have been so…

  5. Steve Walsh-Jones's avatar
    Steve Walsh-Jones on My last post….August 22, 2024

    very sorry to hear this. Your posts have been very informative and enlightening providing an in depth view on different…

  6. thetwinaxletouringscouser's avatar
    thetwinaxletouringscouser on My last post….August 22, 2024

    Good heavens above Simon I am ever sorry to hear of such devastating news for both you yourself and Sue.…

  7. Eileen's avatar
    Eileen on My last post….August 22, 2024

    Simon and Sue, thank you both for sharing your passion for caravans with us. The news is extremely sad, our…

  8. Philip Parkes's avatar
    Philip Parkes on My last post….August 22, 2024

    Simon. So sad to read you last post today. Our thoughts are with you and Sue at this time. Whilst…

  9. Philip Parkes's avatar
    Philip Parkes on My last post….August 22, 2024

    Simon. So sad reading your post today. Our thoughts are with you and Sue at this time.

  10. Philip Parkes's avatar
    Philip Parkes on My last post….August 22, 2024

    Simon our thoughts are with you and Sue.

  11. Luke Tarrant's avatar
    Luke Tarrant on My last post….August 22, 2024

    Very sorry to read this and my thoughts are with you both at this time.

  12. Alan Smith's avatar
    Alan Smith on My last post….August 22, 2024

    Dearest Simon. I have never met you, but I feel as though I have some (limited) knowledge of you and…

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