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Caravan Chronicles

~ not just another caravan blog

Caravan Chronicles

Category Archives: Caravan Servicing

Finishing Off A Few Jobs…

09 Thursday Sep 2021

Posted by Simon Barlow in Accessories, Caravan Electrics, Caravan Restoration, Caravan Servicing, Caravan Window Repair, Gadgets, General, Modifications, Technical

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

Caravans, LED Lights, Maintenance, Modifications, Window Repair

I’d got a few little jobs still outstanding from our big clean a week or so ago. The big one was to repair the front window. When we were cleaning the caravan I noticed that the bottom edge of the central window was starting to separate. After some lengthy procrastination I’d have preferred to replace it but given the hefty price tag and the “It will be January next year at the earliest before we can get you one” type answers from suppliers and removing the window and shipping to off to a company for repair would cost almost the same as a replacement.

It can’t be beyond a diy task to repair. I did a bit of searching for information relating to repairs and one name kept popping up as the manufacturer of the product used to bond the two sheets together…Bondrite Adhesives Ltd.

After reading through Bondrite Adhesives Ltd website a couple of times to work out exactly with adhesive I’d need I ordered their WC112 acrylic adhesive. The 50ml size was £12.10 plus shipping and VAT bringing the total to £20.52. It arrived within 24 hours of ordering, was really well packaged and came with a detailed technical sheet and guidance notes.

I’m not going to do a blow by blow account of how to repair a delaminated window… as I don’t know if this is even going to work, but my first step was to support the window as flat as I could. The standard recommendation is to remove the window lay it on a flat surface and go from there. I didn’t want to remove the window as all I had to repair was the lower edge.

Improvising I used two stands with a cross beam clamped between them to hold the window horizontal. This should take any flexing stress caused by the window stays out of the equation…. Hopefully!

To hold the gap between he two sheets I used three long needles from syringes… this allowed me just enough wiggle room to slide some blotting paper with a bit of isopropanol alcohol to clean out any contaminates. I’d already tested this to make sure it was safe and it does evaporate very quickly.

You are advised to lay down a 5mm bead of glue… as this was going to be difficult between the two sheets of partially bonded plastic I opted to use a wide bore syringe needle on the glue bottle which allowed me to squeeze glue into the gap… it was a bit fiddly but I managed to achieve what I thought would be the right amount. Sliding the three previous inserted needles out to allow the sheets to come together I used some fairly light clamps to hold the pieces together while they cured. Bondrite do caution about NOT using an excessive clamping force as it can lead to crazing of the sheets.

The data sheet advice is that handling strength is achieved after about 3 hours at 20 deg C. I covered up the glued area with microfibre cloths to protect it from the sun and had a sit down with an iced coffee and a sammich.

Next Job…

If you read my previous post “Put Your Lights On Mate…” then you might have picked up on my request at the end for any recommendations for a UK supplier of good quality replacement LED bulbs. Well Peter Farnham posted in the comments section and recommended Classic Car LEDS Ltd ( https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk ). A couple of days later I dropped them an email with a few questions and Duncan replied back with some details. A few more exchanges of emails ended up with me ordering replacement LED bulbs for the new fog lights, indicator lights and stop/tail lights. This is not a sponsored post and I paid the required number of beer tokens for these.

Not much to say on changing the bulbs over… what was noticeable was though they did have a bit heft to them… they seem really really well made. No flexing, solid and just had that feel about them that made me go “Mmmm” while nodding slowly…. almost in a Joey Tribbiani moment.

I did try to do before and after photos to compare the light output…. even tried a short video with one side changed over and the other side on conventional filament bulbs… all failed…. not as easy as it looks in strong sunlight even though the caravan rear was in shade. However the photo above is one side converted over. This is showing the indicator, tail light and fog light lit. The indicators are really bright. Having the LEDS the same colour as the lens works well. The tail light is a strong red and bright while the fog light looks washed out and white… it’s down to the fact that it is so bright its over exposed…. the exposure is correct for the indicator and tail light but the fog light is amazingly bright.. and red.

On the VW Amarok I haven’t had any canbus warnings… I even plugged in my reader to check… all good and no strobing or hyper flash.

To say I’m chuffed with these LED bulbs is a bit of an understatement… if you suffer from rear light envy as you follow one of those gloriously illuminated trucks down the motorway, drop Duncan an email at sales@classiccarleds.co.uk and tell him I sent you. Sort out your rear lights and never again have someone with four megawatts of light bars and spots flashing you and shouting “Put Your Lights On Mate” as they simulate a starship going into warp drive passing you.

Another small job next…

I’d had this gadget for a while and I can’t remember where I got it from. I think it was from a caravan shop at a dealer near York that we visited a while ago.

Simply it’s a security head bolt with a hardened shroud that replaces the normal jockey wheel clamp handle. When it’s installed it is flush with the A frame cover and pretty difficult to get to. It comes with a short handle and socket that fits the security bolt head. I did try with a couple of sockets but the shroud makes it almost impossible to even knock a socket on with a hammer. So if anyone want’s to nick the caravan they now also have to contend with the hassle of getting round my jockey wheel clamp. As I always leave the caravan nose high in storage you can’t even pick it up and drop it on to a tow ball. Hey if it makes them try elsewhere… it works for me.

Thinking about the next step…

This is going to be a big one. I’ve been planning this for a few weeks now and it involves two or three drawings… some detailed planning and I’ve been checking equipment specs in detail. The last stage was to sit and stare at the space available in the caravan and work out Tetris style how it is all physically going to fit in and how much of the existing kit will be removed. More to come soon!

Back to the window…

OK I bet you have been wondering how I got on. Well after nearly five hours of curing time I disassembled my contraption holding the window open and it seems to have worked OK. I can see that it has bonded all along the bottom edge. I could have put a bit more glue in at one spot and needs a light clean up all along the bottom edge to remove what has oozed out. I’ll leave that for at least another 48 hours before attempting to gently sand it off.

All in all I’m pleased with the result and hope to see that it will stand up to the test of time.

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An Easy Fix…

23 Thursday May 2019

Posted by Simon Barlow in Caravan Servicing, General, Maintenance, Projects

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

Maintenance, Project, Repair, Windows

You know how sometimes those little jobs come along that you put off as you think that it’s going to be a bit of a pain to do…. well this was one of them.

IMG_1652

On all three of the front windows the plastic insert trim for the rubber window surround was slowly pulling out of the corners. The worst was the front lower corners on the big central window. I’d ordered 15 metres of replacement from Leisureshopdirect.com (the part I ordered can be found here) for about 99p per metre. It was one of those jobs I’d been putting off for a while as I thought it was going to be a bit of a nightmare to do.

However on a recent jolly to Riverside Touring Park at Betws-y-Coed, one afternoon sat looking at it I decided I’d sat looking at it far too long and that it just had to be attacked head on.

IMG_1654

Tackling it from outside, releasing the window hardware on one side – marking where the screw holes were on the rubber in pencil first, was easy enough. Two cross head screws held in each window latch and window strut to the frame of the caravan. The join in the old strip was in the centre at the top and getting a small flat blade screwdriver under the edge was easy and the the strip simply pulled out across the top and down one side.

I started by checking the width. When you order there are two widths available and two colour options. I’d previously checked the existing strip and measured it to be about 23mm wide. On the web site it was listed as 23 mm or 25mm and available in grey air white.The replacement was however around 50% thicker making it a lot stiffer to insert.

IMG_1655

However it soon worked out that this additional thickness was to my advantage. I could now push the strip into the recess on the caravan side and simply run a small cross head screwdriver round the outer ‘flange’ (I had to get “flange” in there somewhere… silent nod in the direction of Miranda Hart) and flip it over the edge of the strip. The first corner was a bit tricky but my technique was improving all the time.

Once I’d completed the first section from the top down to the middle of the bottom of the frame, I re-attached the window hardware and removed the opposite side…

IMG_1656

This was all going terribly well! It didn’t take too long to remove the hardware from the other side of the window, pull out the old strip and continue around the frame fitting the new strip in.

I wasn’t sure what caused the original material to pull out of the corners but I guessed there might have been some stretching when it was originally installed and maybe  repeated heating and cooling over the last 8 years caused it to return to it’s original dimensions. With the new strip, I did try to ensure I’d not pulled it tight and used the handle of a large screwdriver to try and massage the strip into the corners as much as possible.

All that remained was to re-install the window hardware on this side and check for fit and finish. Everything seemed OK and Granville was summoned with his cloth…

IMG_1659

A light squirt of silicone designed for rubber window seals and a quick polish with a microfibre cloth finished the job off nicely.

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All totalled the main centre window took about 30 minutes to complete start to finish.  Next trip out up to Barnard Castle in a couple of weeks time…. I’ll get the other two smaller windows done.

Finally, before anyone asks, yes I did choose to do this on the warmest day in North Wales so far this year!

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A Request…

09 Sunday Dec 2018

Posted by Simon Barlow in Blog updates, Caravan Electrical Fault Finding, Caravan Electrics, Caravan Fault Finding, Caravan Servicing, Electrical, General, Help Guides, Maintenance, Motor Home, Technical

≈ 11 Comments

Tags

Fuse Voltage Drop Table, Relay Wall Chart, Technical, Wire Size Chart

Ok, not one of my usual blog posts. I get a lot of email asking about various electrical items related to caravans and motorhomes and a few things seem to keep cropping up on a regular basis. One is to do with 12 volt relays… what types are there and what are the pin connections.

Another is to do with cable size relating to load and its relation to the length of cable…. “I have a 40 Amp load and its 3 metres from the battery… what size cable do I need?” type questions.

In the past I’ve emailed back with answers, but one caravan engineer asked me if I know of any information sheets that had this type of info that he could put above his workbench.

So I’ve produced a couple of A3 size PDF information sheets (they will print A4) that can be downloaded printed out and pinned up, shoved in your notebook, glued to the lid of your tool box or used to wrap that must have tool present for your beloved caravan or motorhome DIY enthusiast in your life (seasonal eh!)

(I have been told that Office World can print and laminate A3 PDF’s cheaply…. I never knew that!)

Screenshot 2018-12-09 at 10.23.41

Click here to download the  Relay Wall Chart

Screenshot 2018-12-09 at 10.24.11

Click here to download the   Wire Size Wall Chart

Screenshot 2018-10-11 at 16.52.54

Click here to download the Fuse Voltage Drop Table

I have stylised them as technical drawings and I’ve had to watermark them and some of the icons as I found a lot of my drawings were ending up “as is” or edited on various sites and forums without any credit or link back to Caravan Chronicles. You are free to print out and use them for your own personal use, but if you wish to use them (or any of my drawings) for commercial use, inclusion in blog posts or forums please include a credit line back to CaravanChronicles.com and drop me a line to let me know.

We are just back from Chester Fairoaks after doing the Chester Christmas market and a bit of shopping at Cheshire Oaks Designer Outlet Village and will be adding off to York for a bit more Christmas Market action.

I have a couple of more information ‘posters’ in development but if you have any ideas for future offerings, drop a line in the comments below. Of course my legal advisor – Henry has asked me to point out E & OE

(Everything on the internet is improved by a cat apparently… so here’s Henry)

IMG_2176
  • Related posts you may like…
  • A Request…
  • The problem with information from the internet…
  • Euro 6 Engines, Smart Alternators and Your Leisure Battery…
  • For Anyone Restoring A Vintage Caravan…
  • Overland Vehicle Electrics and Other Stuff…
  • A Quick Fault Finding Tip…
  • Something For Your Toolbox…
  • Getting All Charged Up – Update 2…
  • Is A Euro 6 Engine Killing Your Leisure Battery?…
  • Getting All Charged Up – Update
  • Getting All Charged Up – Part 3 “The Install”…
  • Getting All Charged Up – Part 2…
  • Getting All Charged Up – Part 1…
  • Smart Alternators: how they affect Caravans and Motorhomes….

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A Quick Fault Finding Tip…

12 Friday Oct 2018

Posted by Simon Barlow in Caravan Electrical Fault Finding, Caravan Electrics, Caravan Fault Finding, Caravan Servicing, Electrical, Technical, Tips

≈ 18 Comments

Tags

Caravan Electrical, Fault Finding, Maintenance, Technical, Tips

Sometimes things you take for granted and have in your toolbox of fault-finding tricks are a dark art to others.

I was talking someone through a bit of fault-finding on their vehicle and asked if they had measured the current in the circuit. “No” came back the answer. I asked what type of fuse and rating it was and asked the person to just put their voltmeter across the fuse and tell me the voltage across the fuse. “Ah… that’s about 3.2 amps then” I said.

“How do you know that?”

Simple really – all fuses have a resistance and if you know that you can work out the current from the voltage drop. Even simpler really – there are tables for various fuses that have it all worked out for you. I have a selection collected over the years stuffed into the lid of my tool box, along with a lot of other junk paperwork!

I created a volt drop table based on PEC (Pacific Engineering Corporation) fuses that are supplied as OEM fuses in most Japanese, Korean and European vehicles however it is pretty accurate for almost all other makes of the same type of fuse. I printed mine out, laminated them and added them to the collection in the top of my toolbox.

Screenshot 2018-10-11 at 16.52.54

It’s quite easy to use. Just set your multimeter to read DC mV and read the voltage displayed. Now select the fuse type, in this case an ATO fuse – the most common used in vehicles, caravans and motorhomes and from the chart look down the left column until you see the voltage measurement that matches the one on your multimeter… lets say 0.011 volts (11mV)

The fuse is a red 10 Amp fuse so follow the 0.011 volt line across until you get to the 10 Amp fuse column and read the current figure… in this case 1.3547 or 1.3 Amps. It’s as easy as that, no need to break the circuit to put your multimeter in as an Ammeter.

fuse-buddy-specialty-meters-esi305m-64_1000
I have a couple of these cheap handy plug-in ammeter’s…  although they do have limitations and only work up to 20 Amps.

Although the table is based on PEC ATO/ATC and MINI fuses (download info below) it is pretty close with most manufacturers fuses and as a general reference for fault-finding will be good enough to 0.1 amp.

If you need to know the actual current through a circuit, you need to use an ammeter and not rely on tables but for general work they are close enough.

These tables also come in handy if you are trying to find out why a battery is draining. Without turning anything on it is easy to run through a fusebox checking to see if any circuits have a current drain on them without having to constantly pull fuses and insert an ammeter, which sometimes can upset or reset the circuit you are working on.

One thing to remember with this test if you’re tracing a fault, is you are only measuring the volt drop across the fuse to determine current. You really need to know how much current you should be drawing. For example, If I was testing the 12 volt fridge circuit fuse and I only got a voltage drop across the fuse that calculates to 6 Amps then I’d know there was an issue somewhere along the circuit as I’d be expecting around 10 Amps or more.

A word from our Safety Officer…

"Oscar" our senior safety cat.

Oscar would like to remind you that working on a live circuit has risks and never attempt to undertake volt drop measurements on mains circuits. Most cheap multimeters do not have the internal protection or fused test leads. Be safe. Be like Oscar.

You can down load the table in PDF format (4 pages) and either print them out or save them to your device from the following link: Fuse Voltage Drop Table

Unfortunately due to a lot of my drawings and text being used elsewhere without credit back to CaravanChronicles.com  I’ve had to start putting watermarks on a lot of things. I hope this doesn’t make the table too difficult to read.

P.S. Someone told me that everything on the internet can be improved by cats and my “likes” would go through the roof!

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Getting All Charged Up – Part 2…

26 Wednesday Apr 2017

Posted by Simon Barlow in Caravan Electrics, Caravan Servicing, Electrical, General, Maintenance, Modifications, Projects, Technical, Uncategorized

≈ 10 Comments

Tags

Battery Charging, Leisure Battery Charging, Maintenance, Project, Sterling Power, Sterling Power Wildside, Technical

Planning the Install

Remember the Six P’s… “Proper Planning Prevents Piddling Poor Performance”… or something along those lines! Before we start hacking away at the multitude of cables (and my email inbox fills up with help requests) we need to pull out the relevant electrical schematics from the handbook. Our caravan is a ‘dealer special’ based on a 2011 Swift Europa 550 fitted with a Sargent PSU.

We can see from the schematic below that the 13 pin plug enters into the caravan and terminates with two connectors – FB6 and FB7 on fuse unit C44 which in our caravan is located just next to the front draws near the water pump. FB6 is all the road lights and we can ignore this.

Socket Connections

The cables we are interested in are from pins 9,10,11 & 13 which are coloured Orange, Slate Grey, White/Black and White/Red respectively and terminate in connector FB7. We need to now look for these leaving the Fuse Unit and heading off to the PSU.

The most likely candidate will be connector FB2 with four cables going to connector P1 on the PSU. If they are all 2.5mm²  it’s a good clue these are the ones we want. We will need to check these with a multimeter though to be sure. The colours have changed too so we will need to confirm what the new colour is for each circuit.

Socket Connections 2

So that’s the input side of the Wildside potentially sorted out, now we have to find the fridge connections. Looking at the schematic for the Power Circuits we can see that the fridge is connected via four cables. One directly to Neutral and the other three to P7. We can also see from this schematic that the leisure battery is connected to P2 via a 20 Amp fuse. This tells us two things – the wiring is rated for 20 amps and we will have to upgrade the cable size from the Wildside unit to the leisure battery.

Fridge Circuit

For the fridge… We are interested in the two cables that power the heating element and on the drawing they are coloured W/B and R/Y (White/Black and Red/Yellow) and originate from connector P7 on the PSU.

Fridge Circuit 2

We have now identified on the schematics the cables we need to look for and where they run from and to. Next step is to create a new schematic using the information from these two drawings to show how we are going to connect in the Wildside unit.

To The Bat Cave…. err Drawing Board!

If you are handy at using a drawing package such as Sketch-Up or similar (I use “AUTODESK® Graphic” on my MAC) you can have a go at drawing it out, or simply just use a sheet of paper. The important thing here is you DO draw it out.. this is not an option, its a mandatory task!

TIP: If you are drawing this out by hand on a sheet of paper, it might help to photocopy your caravan schematics and cut out the relevant sections… like the fridge and stick them to your drawing to make it easier.

So here’s my efforts….

Wildside Wiring 01

If you remember in part 1 I said we will need to make five connections…. not including the neutral. Well we have the five connections. After looking at the layout I decided not to cut the current leisure battery connections to upgrade, but to install a new Positive and Neutral cable alongside the original cables. This will mean however I will need to drill a new hole in the battery box and install a sealed cable gland.

The three cables that we cut on P1 that are now unconnected should, in theory not be part of any circuit. However to be sure I’m going to terminate both the neutral cables (originally connected to Pin 11 and Pin 13 to the neutral point on the Wildside unit.

The cable that was originally connected to Pin 9 I’ll just crimp on a blind connector and secure out of harms way. I am not sure if this might need to be connected to a +ve supply. There are a couple of things that I’ll need to check, for example, the toilet flush always works when the caravan is connected to the tow vehicle – with or without the engine running ( handy if a quick P(it) stop is required!).

Now… To The Bat Cave!

Well it might be a couple of days as I have just ordered a few bits and pieces I don’t have in stock in the workshop… and I’m still procrastinating whether to do the install as a video to accompany my written ramblings.

Coming up in part 3. I attempt not to destroy our caravan, do a lot of crimping, consume a lot of coffee and I may be swearing a lot on camera!

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Getting All Charged Up – Part 1…

25 Tuesday Apr 2017

Posted by Simon Barlow in Boondocking, Caravan Electrics, Caravan Servicing, Electrical, Gadgets, General, Maintenance, Modifications, Off Grid, Product Review, Reviews, Technical, tow vehicle, Uncategorized, VW Amarok

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Euro6 Engines, Leisure Battery Charging, Maintenance, Project, Regen Braking, Sterling Power Wildside

If you are a regular reader you may remember a couple of posts I wrote about leisure battery charging in caravans and motorhomes (Smart Alternators: how they affect Caravans and Motorhomes…. and NEC Show Roundup – it’s all technical…) and I linked to a few videos that Charles Sterling from Sterling Power has produced covering charging topics and Euro6 engines. At the recent NEC show Sterling Power were featuring a new product that would soon be available that would solve all the issues for caravan owners that were experiancing towing with vehicles that had “smart alternators” which were are standard on Euro5 and Euro6 engines and the issues around regenerative braking on Euro6 engines. Charles promised to send me one of the first pre-production “Wildside” Battery to Battery chargers specifically designed for caravans.

IMG_1127A couple of days ago I was excited to receive   a package from Sterling Power containing one of the pre-production new “Wildside” units. The unit itself is robustly constructed and weighs in at about the same as a bag of sugar – 1Kg.

It comes with a comprehensive 11 page instruction/installation manual that goes through all the steps that you need to install the units and what all the various lights and connections are on the unit itself. For anyone that is familiar with my electrical drawings, Sterling have based their installation drawings on my format so are easy to understand (in my opinion!).

I’ll state now for the record, Sterling Power have sent me this free of charge to install and evaluate and that is what I’m going to do, but I will be honest and tell you if I think there are any issues with the installation or the unit in the way that it operates.

IMG_1131

Looking at the connections for the unit it all looks straight forward. The circuit board is labelled  exactly as the drawings in the installation manual which is reassuring and the manual goes into the various functions of each connection and the programming of the unit.

Why this unit?

Since we had changed from using our 2006 Land Rover Freelander HSE as our primary tow vehicle to our 2016 VW Amarok Atacama I had noticed that our leisure battery was not getting close to a full charge even after towing for a couple of hours. We don’t have a solar charging system installed and relied on the tow vehicle and EHU when on site to keep our leisure battery topped up. I knew about the limitations of smart alternators and have written about them before and answered lots of emails about problems readers were now experiancing. Up to this point I really didn’t have an answer to most of the problems and I was considering going down the same route as our Australian cousins and installing some hefty cables between the tow vehicle and caravan, connected together with Anderson connectors. Works fine down under and would do here, especially coupled with one of Sterling Power’s B2B units which I had been looking at.

Now this would be ideal for us, but anyone who tows using a company car, a lease vehicle or a vehicle on a LP scheme can’t just go ahead and install stuff willy nilly. Unless it is done right, it has the potential to be a bit of a ticking bomb as well and  if I was going to recommend it as a solution there are very few people with experience to do an installation of this type. I have seen some right botch jobs on heavy-duty cabling by so-called “professionals” when installing simple winches and dual battery systems on 4 x 4 off road vehicles. Using a lump hammer, cold chisel and block of metal is NOT the professional way to crimp battery cables!

I was looking round to see if there were other options and talking to the chaps on the Sterling Power stand at the show told me they had a product in development that might just be the solution…. and here we are!

How does it work?

I’m not going to give you chapter and verse on the internals (some of that would be guessing on my part and some is propriety information anyway) so I’ll simplify it as much as I can.

In current tow vehicles you have two connections that supply power to the caravan – one for the fridge which is only live when the engine runs and one for charging the leisure battery which is usually live all the time.  Now the problem is that as it’s quite a distance from the front of the vehicle where the battery and alternator are to where  the leisure battery and fridge are located in the caravan. The size of the cables providing the connections are key to how efficient it all works.

Nearly all good quality tow bar wiring uses 2.5 mm square (2.5mm²) cable for these circuits and they connect between the tow vehicle and caravan through a 13 pin plug and socket (or 12N & 12S in older vehicles). The problem with all this is down to good electrical ‘laws’. In essence the more current you draw through a length of cable the greater the voltage drop ( I go into a bit of techie detail about it here… Understanding Cable and Cable Sizes ) Some people go to the lengths of re-wiring the circuits in 4mm² or even 6mm² cable, which was OK up to a point… usually the point which is the connection between the vehicle and caravan. With the traditional installation what you end up with is two circuits that the voltage is usually too low to provide a good charging capability for the leisure battery and the fridge circuit that might or might not, depending on voltage drop, have some spare capacity but you can’t use it to charge the leisure battery.

Back to the Wildside unit…

What the Wildside unit does and this is really clever, is it takes over the two power circuits, aggregates them and manages the output. It draws the maximum current available through each of the two circuits and provides an output for the fridge always at the correct voltage to maximise the efficiency of your fridge and protect it from the voltage fluctuations inherent with Euro6 and Regen engines and any spare capacity on this circuit it added to the leisure battery charging circuit, steps up the voltage and provides a separate output via a four stage intelligent battery charger to maximise the charging capability to your leisure battery.

This is a very very simple one paragraph explanation, it does have a few other tricks up its sleeve though.

One feature is the “Remote Mode Select” switch option. This allows you to install a switch that will allow you to turn the unit to “Wildside”, “Boondocking” or “Off Grid” mode and run the fridge as though it was being powered from the vehicle. It is actually being powered from the leisure battery.

Take note though… Most caravans and motorhomes are fitted with absorption fridges which use a heated element that is constantly on to make the fridge work. However some motorhomes ( I don’t know of any caravans) are fitted with the more expensive and vastly more efficient compressor fridges which work exactly like your fridge at home but can’t run on gas. If you are camping off grid for a few days with an absorption fridge, then run it on gas. However if you are worried about your fridge not maintaining temperature on an hours ferry crossing or on a euro tunnel crossing then you can use the switch to keep the fridge running. The period you can power it will depend on the capacity of your battery(s)… I would not advise using it with and absorption fridge on a battery bank with anything less than 110Ah capacity.

If you do use this feature on the Wildside unit, it will protect your battery bank from discharging past the safe point by turning off the fridge when the voltage reduces and reaches a critical point that would damage your battries.

You also have the ability to specifically select the type of leisure battries you have installed – GEL I, GEL II, AGM I, AGM II, Sealed, Open, Calcium, LiFePO4 to get the correct tailored charging and maintenance program for your battery bank.

If you are fortunate to have lithium leisure batteries there are a couple of other connections you will need to check out too.

Installation Considerations…

We know what it does so how do we connect it. Well this is where it could get messy unless we have a plan.

IMG_1132

In essence, what do we need to do? Well we have to cut and divert the incoming pin 9 and pin 10 into the Wildside unit and connect one output to the leisure battery. We also need to disconnect the fridge from the caravan’s original control box and reconnect it to the Wildside unit. As the habitation relay is usually buried inside the original control box we need to be able to control this from the Wildside unit. There is a terminal for this (“CVan Dis Output”) but what do we connect to this to make the habitation relay operate correctly?

The original Pin 10 lead that we cut and diverted into the Wildside unit, the other end of this still goes into the installed control box and this will operate the habitation relay. Remember we disconnected the fridge power lead from the installed control box and reconnected it directly to the FRG+ output on the Wildside unit so all it does now is operate the habitation relay.

So summing up, we have to cut 3 cables and re-terminate 5 ends into the Wildside unit. This of course does not include the neutral connections which will be easy and straight forward.

Other Considerations…

The installation of the Wildside unit must be easily reversible so it can be moved to another caravan at some point in the future.

We must also use the correct size cables to connect to the leisure battery as we will now be charging at higher currents than was possible before, the original cable that was installed in the caravan to connect to the leisure battery may not be of a sufficient rating.

We must document the changes properly so that at some point in the future someone can follow what we have done incase they have to fault find.

We must make sure all the connections and general installation are done to a high standard to ensure the installation is safe.

Finally we must be able to do the install without invalidating any warranty on the original installed control unit (i.e. not opening it up) and retain functionality of all the elements of the caravans electrical system. It’s no use installing the Wildside unit if half the electrical features of you caravan don’t work afterwards!

IMG_1130In Part 2…

In the next part I’ll go through the manufacturers electrical schematics of the caravan and show how to find and trace  which cables we are going to look for when we do the install and how we produce a simple drawing showing the changes.

I’ll also come up with a quick check list for all the additional bits (cable, terminals etc) that we will need for the install.

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Flushed With Success….. Eventually!

13 Tuesday Dec 2016

Posted by Simon Barlow in Blog updates, Caravan Electrics, Caravan Fault Finding, Caravan Servicing, General

≈ 9 Comments

Tags

Caravan, Thetford Toilet, Touring

You know there are times when I think the service industry is going down the pan.

Right… the prologue

We had driven down to Chapel Lane caravan site to do a bit of partaking of the Christmas Markets in Birmingham and to do a bit of filming with the Venerable Andy Harris of motorhome fame (more about that in the next post though!). We had set up and I was pottering round outside sorting the guy ropes for the awning or the Christmas lights, I can’t remember which, when Sue popped her head out of the door and announced with some consternation… “The toilet won’t flush”

I went in and pushed the button… yep it wouldn’t flush, no pump noise, nothing. I emerged from the bathroom and announced “The toilet won’t flush” at which point Sue gave me the “did you think I was pushing the button wrong or something” look.

Right… check the fuses first, all OK. Out came the tool bag and the multimeter. Voltage going to the loo OK… check the fuse in the bottom of the loo behind the cassette. That was OK too.

Now I don’t believe in coincidences and it just so happened a couple of weeks before the caravan had been in to Glossop Caravans to have a spot of damp sorted and they had replaced the wall board that the loo backs onto. It’s got to be that I thought and said to Sue “I’ll bet it’s when they did the damp and took the loo out”

“Give them a ring now while they are still open”

I spoke to one of the service centre receptionists and they said they would get the workshop manager to ring me back and in due course he did. After a brief conversation he assured me it was nothing they had done and if the loo was getting voltage and the fuse in the loo was OK it must be the circuit board. While he was on the phone I managed one handed to peel back the Thetford sticker on the top of the loo and extract the circuit board. A quick voltage check of the pins that connect to the motor revealed that it was zero volts when the button was pushed.

“It defiantly the circuit board then” he said.

The old circuit board top, with the new one below.

The old circuit board top, with the new one below.

I thanked him and started thinking about our next move while answering an email from the afore mentioned Andy Harris. I just happened to say “loos not working need a new circuit board” and Andy emailed back “Try Jonathan at CAK Tanks” A quick phone call and they did have one in stock… just one. I asked them to reserve it and would pop over mid morning. CAK Tanks was only about 18 miles away and took us 30 minutes to get there. After some double checking to make sure it was the right board… Thetford had very usefully changed the part number and not told many people about it. Handily the new part number was a lot cheaper and it cost £19.36 including the non voluntary contribution to the Chancellor of the Exchequer.

Now, you remember when I said I don’t believe in coincidences.  For some reason I thought I’d just check the connections that Glossop Caravans service people would have disconnected.

Its easy to extract the connector through the hole in the floor of the cassette compartment and check the connections….

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On checking the connections it was apparent that they had been connected the wrong way…. i.e reverse polarity!

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The plug that was fitted by Thetford is designed to be connected one way, but the wiring harness in the caravan used two spade connectors that could be connected in any orientation and this time the person re-fitting the loo had a 50/50 chance of being right or wrong and in this case got it wrong. I re-connected the two space connectors the right way and went and fitted our old circuit board. It worked!

So the morel of this story is there are no such thing as coincidences and before setting out on a round trip of 36 miles and spending £19.36 on a new circuit board… check the polarity!

I think I’ll go a flush the loo again…. just because I can.

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NEC Show, Caravan Designs and Looking For A Caravan…

05 Saturday Nov 2016

Posted by Simon Barlow in Blog updates, Camping & Caravan Show, Caravan Servicing, Maintenance

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Caravan Show, NEC

A bit of a belated post about our trip down to the NEC show and looking round at the possibilities of a new caravan and a catch up on the damp situation (thanks to everyone that emailed me about it!)

This year was our first time taking the caravan down to the show, and after some initial over thinking about actually staying on a car park, it turned out really quite a fun experience.

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I actually spotted someone taking a photo of the Amarok!

Due to both our work commitments we couldn’t leave for the show until Thursday after I’d finished a 12 hour night shift. So after a few hours sleep we left home to collect the caravan around lunchtime. The drive down even in mid-week traffic wasn’t too bad, and towing on a busy motorway with the Amarok is a breeze letting the cruse control pace us with the HGV’s. The instructions for getting to site sent to us by the Caravan Club were easy to follow and got us into the reception area smoothly without any wrong turns.

Surprisingly the N11 car park is fairly level where we were and setup was quick. The Caravan Club had done a sterling job of making sure water and electrics were all sorted and it didn’t take us long to set up. As it was fairly late, we put off going over to the show until the morning.

Friday

Up fairly early, quick shower (loving the Eco Camel shower head!), coffee and we walked the twenty or so feet to the bus stop for the 5 minute bus ride to the NEC. First stop was to the press office to pick up our badges and a quick text to Andrew Ditton who I’d arranged to meet up with again.

img_0838

After being told about the damp in the caravan and the cracked end cap, we had it in mind to look round for a new caravan. Our initial tick list was simple – twin axle, centre  bathroom. Other than that, we would start a list of likes and dislikes as we saw each van based on what we saw.

One thing became clear pretty quickly, we weren’t keen on transverse beds as it meant one or the other of us would have to do some nifty squeezing to get to the bathroom at night.

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“Hmmm why is this table here exactly?”

Hair Drying…

Sue finds the setup for her in our present caravan works really well for hair drying. There is a light, mirror, shelf and 240 volt power socket conveniently placed so she can sit on the edge of the bed and dry her hair. This was one of the things we were scoring on. We were surprised that in some of the vans this was not possible. Sit on the edge of the bed and watch TV… but no mirror. Or a mirror, shelf and light but nowhere to plug-in a hair dryer or straighteners. While on the subject of TV’s… why do manufacturers insist on installing a TV mount in the bedroom…. but not always in the living area. By choice we would not have a mount fitted in the bedroom but would want one in the living area.

img_0848

… Like the fridge and microwave locations… no cooker hood though.

The other thing that we noticed was Swift are now installing a TV mount in a locker on the outside of the caravan…. methinks someone has been watching too many American RV shows with 40 inch TV’s installed on the outside. Personally I think this is a bad idea. TV’s in awnings have been the source of noise complaints in the past. I do hope this is not going to be a new trend.

Tables…

In our current van, the table is stored under the bed, and to be honest it’s a pain to get out and put away. So we checked out the table locations. Some were great, right in the living area… others were not so good, you had to carry them from the back of the van through to the front. I know it’s only a minor thing but its a thing never the less.

Outside Lockers…

Right, who said “We don’t need outside lockers” then? It seems more and more are dropping the number of outside lockers. The ones that do remain, just how useful are they? A number of the caravans we looked over you would be hard pushed to get a couple of outside chairs in the lockers as the space inside had been sub divided or was a wet locker. Currently we can store our chairs, waste hog and Cadac that are stored under the bed from the outside via a reasonably sized locker hatch only having to carry the Aquaroll inside the caravan to store it under the bed. When you start looking at the practicality of some of the lockers and what you can or can’t fit in through the opening do you realise the limitations.

Sinks we like…

Sinks… not really exciting but getting it right is important. Currently we have a rind sink, which is OK, until you want to use it. we have to find a place to put the sink cover… get out the draining board, make some space on the counter top, drop on the draining board and we are good to go. Afterwards, dry off the draining board, put it away, get out the sink cover and fit it back over the sink. Not too onerous really, but not exactly convenient. Now we both spotted this sink…. (photo below)

img_0845

Now that sink we do like and a solid door between the kitchen are and bathroom.

and both of us commented on what an improvement it was. The lid acted as an additional splash back the draining board was integrated into the sink so water draining off the washed dishes would not go everywhere… except back in the sink and it was a more usable shape. The tap too was handy, it would swing over the hob to allow filling of a pan rather than hiding a pan partly in the sink with one hand while trying to operate the tap with the other. We liked the general layout of this kitchen, the powered roof extractor right above the hob, but the down side was the hight and location of the microwave.

While on the subject of roof fans… why can’t caravan manufacturers install a sensible extracting cooker hood that vents to the outside?

img_0844

… A cooker hood! sadly only a circulation type not a proper extractor and twin beds… only the bathroom is to the rear. Close but no cigar!

After looking round all the manufacturers twin axle offerings we were very tempted… to the point of sitting down with the sales rep from Glossop Caravans and getting a value on our van for a trade in with the Sterling Celebration 635 – a dealer special. It ticked a lot of the boxes but sat in our caravan that evening we went through where we would put what… and it seemed like we were always making compromises about what could go where. and the list of what we would have to change or adapt seemed to get longer and longer. The layout was good… and we did like the fact the transverse bed was on the opposite side… I don’t know why that should make a difference really. But it came down to silly things… like that outside TV locker. That was a complete waste for us, and why didn’t they offer the rear view camera? It was fitted on other spec Swift caravans?

Our Ideal Layout…

We popped in to see the Vanmaster caravan… hand-built luxury, they only build about 12 per year apparently. This was a bit of an eye-opener layout wise for us though. The interior design was not to our taste, but these guys had our perfect layout. Centre bathroom and twin beds to the rear. Solid doors to shut of the bathroom both from the bedroom and the kitchen area.

So here it is, our ‘ideal’ (for the moment!) layout and options…

  • A Centre bathroom with twin beds to the rear. Under each bed, a storage space accessible from the outside, with perhaps on the off side a slightly larger door so that an Aquaroll can be passed through (store the Aquaroll and wastehog on the side it’s going to be used… along with perhaps the mains cable and hose pipe).
  • A solid door between the bedroom and bathroom, and another solid door between the living area and bathroom. The bathroom to have a powered roof fan vent.
  • A service light on the off-side above the EHU plug-in point & water point and a light mounted on the “A” frame to light the front gas locker.
  • Rear view camera.
  • Proper cooker hood.
  • Sensible place to sit and dry hair.
  • No “hunk of iron” screwed to the wall in the bedroom for a TV that we would never fit.
  • Internal water tank.
  • Suitable area for me to work at a laptop.
  • Ability to install a second leisure battery.
  • 100 watts minimum solar panel
  • At least 800mm width of wardrobe hanging space (2 x 400 would be fine)
  • Lounge table stored in the lounge area.
  • A useful ‘user’ load capacity of 200Kg
  • Lockers… lots of lockers that you can actually put stuff in. Also locker doors that open downwards not lift up so you have to get on your hands and knees to peer inside under the open door.

Decisions Decisions….

So what did we decide in the end? Well our caravan went back to Glossop Caravans to have new caps installed and the damp sorted, and while it was there we decided to have the roof light in the bedroom and the one in the bathroom replaced with the new clear tilt lift ones that are now fitted as standard in a number of vans. The old ones were virtually impossible to clean and both were showing cracks in the edges of the outer perspex layer.

I have designed and built a new section for the chest of draws in the lounge that fits between the draws and the front window that will give us two 12 volt sockets, three 240 volt sockets and 6 USB sockets. Once that’s installed and with the new roof lights fitted…. we decided to keep the caravan for another year.

img_0837

Staying at the NEC for the show…

If you haven’t done it… DO IT! For us it was well worth it. It’s not cheap, but being able to wander in and out of the show, planning what to see and going back to check out things in detail was really worth it.

img_0836

That’s us in the distance on the corner…. in front of the tent!…

“In A Tent… In A Car Park…. Next To The NEC….”

We were pitched on the corner right in front of the tent and on the first night the music kicked off… and it was… it wasn’t all that bad, in fact it was pretty good. The next nights music was pretty good also. So not wanting to be missing anything we ventured in and it was packed out…

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It was a great atmosphere and everyone was enjoying it. It was a different group playing each night. The beer was cold and not too pricy, the food seemed to be going down well too.

img_0856

If you haven’t stayed at the NEC for one of the big shows, it’s well worth it in our opinion, especially if you are looking to buy a new caravan or motor home. It gives you plenty of time to look round, make lists and go back to find exactly what you want.

Oh and by the way…. the catch phrase of the week from the evenings MC…. “In A Tent… In A Car Park…. Next To The NEC“

I’d like to take a second to thank all the Caravan Club staff that make staying at the NEC possible. It looks easy, but I’m sure an awful lot of work has to go into the organisation of it all and hard work by members staffing the site. Remember, if we don’t book and use it, we could lose it!

What’s Next?…

I’ve just taken delivery of a dash-cam for the Amarok. It’s a twin camera unit so I’ll be installing that in the next few days. I’m not sure if I’ll be doing a write-up on the actual installation… unless you would like to read about it. Let me know.

UPDATE… (even before the post is posted!)

It’s taken me a few days to write this article and this morning (5th Nov) we went up to Glossop Caravans to collect our caravan after having the remedial work done for the damp and the two new roof lights installed. The work on the damp seems fine, I guess time will tell with that. The roof lights have been installed and they are exactly what we wanted. However our initial checks didn’t show up an issue. It wasn’t until we got the caravan back to our storage facility that on closer inspection one of the roof lights had a crack in the main body.

The bathroom roof light, perfect, no issues.

The bathroom roof light, perfect, no issues.

img_0865

However on the roof light above the bed there is a crack on the inner frame…

img_0866

At first we thought is was a dirty mark, but on closer inspection it is a fully developed crack…

img_0867

… possibly starting from this over tightened screw maybe?

So, as I was on a night shift last night and asleep most of the day as I’m on nights again tonight (no bonfire for me) I’ll have to drop them an email tonight with a follow-up call on Monday.

Sometimes you really want to just go “AAAAAGHHHHHHHHHH”

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Oh Phooey, Bad News From Glossop Caravans…

21 Sunday Aug 2016

Posted by Simon Barlow in Caravan Servicing, General, Maintenance

≈ 12 Comments

Tags

Caravan, Caravanning, Glossop Caravans, Maintenance

We went to pick up our caravan yesterday from Glossop Caravans after it has had its annual service. Unfortunately we received some bad news… we have damp.

It’s at the rear in the top offside corner. Glossop Caravans have been pro-active and already submitted a warranty claim. This is why it’s so important to get your caravan serviced in line with the manufacturers guidelines.

Scan

It appears we have a crack at the top of the rear end cap. While we were there, they positioned a ladder platform next to the caravan so we could both go up and have a look, and indeed there is a crack right on the radius of the corner, about 75mm long and when you pass your finger across it you can feel a slight step, which to me indicates something is causing one side to be pushed out… either something underneath or a slight twisting pressure on the corner.

I’m not sure how long the warranty claim will take to be accepted (or rejected… but that’s a potential nightmare) but the work apparently will take around three to four weeks.

So, hopefully we will still be going to the NEC in October with the caravan and I’ll keep you updated on progress.

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